Spring is when colonies grow quickly (see the bee hive life cycle through the year), and stores left over from winter can run low before nectar is plentiful. Feeding is sometimes necessary, but it is not always needed. This guide explains how to decide and how to feed safely.
Feeding practice varies by region, so check local advice from a beekeeping association where possible.
Should you feed in spring?
Feed when a colony is short of stores and little or no nectar is coming in, or when a late cold snap keeps bees from foraging. Many beekeepers avoid feeding colonies that have plenty of honey, and avoid feeding during a nectar flow, because syrup can crowd the brood nest and end up mixed with honey intended for harvest.
Check stores first
On a mild day, look at the amount of capped and uncapped stores. Heft the hive and compare weights between inspections. Light hives and colonies with little food near the cluster are the ones most at risk of starving in early spring, since brood rearing increases food use. See how colonies use honey to stay warm.
What to feed
- Sugar syrup. The usual choice for stimulating or supporting growth.
- Dry sugar or fondant. Useful as emergency food when it is still cold, because bees do not need to handle liquid in cold weather.
- Pollen substitute or patties. May help if natural pollen is scarce, though many beekeepers rely on natural forage where it is available.
- Honey from other hives. Generally avoided, because it can carry disease spores and encourages robbing.
- Water. Bees also need a clean water source nearby.
Syrup ratio
Spring syrup is commonly mixed 1 part sugar to 1 part water by weight (1:1). It is thinner than autumn syrup, which is usually 2:1. Use plain white sugar (not brown sugar or other unrefined types) and clean equipment. Warm the water to dissolve the sugar, and let the syrup cool before feeding. Do not leave syrup standing for long periods, as it can ferment or grow mould.
Feeder types
- Entrance feeders: easy to monitor but can encourage robbing.
- Frame feeders: sit inside the box, holding more syrup, but need care to avoid drowning bees.
- Top feeders and inverted jars or pails: hold more syrup and keep it inside the hive.
Make sure the hive is level so the bees can reach all the syrup.
When to start and stop
Feeding is generally begun only when temperatures allow the bees to take syrup, and stopped once natural forage is available or stores are adequate. Feeding too close to the main flow can mean syrup ends up in honey supers, so remove supers before feeding or avoid feeding near the flow.
Avoiding robbing and mess
- Do not spill syrup around the apiary.
- Feed in the evening if using open or exposed feeders.
- Reduce entrances on weak colonies (see entrance reducers).
- Stop feeding if bees start fighting at the entrance.
Common mistakes
- Feeding colonies that do not need it
- Using too thin or too thick a mixture for the season
- Leaving feeders empty and open
- Offering syrup when nights are cold and the bees cannot reach it
FAQ
What is the best way to feed bees?
For most hobby beekeepers, a feeder that sits inside the hive, such as a top feeder or frame feeder, is easier to manage and less likely to attract robbers than an open feeder.
Do bees come out in April?
In many northern regions, bees begin flying on warmer days in March and April, though this depends on local weather. Seeing bees fly is a good time to check stores, but do not open the hive in cold or windy weather.
What comes before and after spring feeding?
Strong spring colonies usually come from good preparation: see preparing a hive for winter. Late-summer questions are covered in August beekeeping.