August is a turning point in the beekeeping year (in the northern hemisphere; shift the months by about six months in the southern hemisphere). Colonies begin to shrink, nectar flows often slow, and the bees that will carry the colony through winter are being raised. The work you do now has a lot of influence on how colonies fare later.
What August looks like in the hive
- The population has usually peaked earlier in the summer and begins to decline, and brood nests may contract.
- Bees raised from late summer onward are often called winter bees, and they live longer than summer workers.
- Varroa mite numbers can build up through late summer if not controlled.
- Hot weather can make bees ventilate heavily or gather outside the entrance in the evening, which is called bearding and is normally not a sign of trouble on its own.
- Some regions have a smaller second swarm period in late summer, but this is much less common than spring swarming.
Inspection priorities
Inspections in August are about checking the colony’s readiness for what comes next:
- Is there a laying queen and a good pattern of brood?
- Does the queen have room to lay, or is the nest honey-bound?
- Are there signs of disease or pests?
- How much honey is stored?
If the colony appears queenless or has a failing queen, act quickly, since there is less time left in the season to raise or introduce a new queen.
Varroa monitoring and treatment
Many beekeepers monitor mites in August and treat afterwards, since high mite loads in late summer can damage the winter bees. Use an approved monitoring method (alcohol wash, sugar roll, or sticky board) and treat using products that are legal and recommended in your area. Some treatments cannot be used while honey supers are on the hive, so timing matters with harvest. See our winter preparation checklist for how this fits the wider plan.
Harvesting and leaving enough honey
If you take a late-summer harvest, be careful not to remove food the colony needs. Many sources suggest that colonies need substantial honey stores heading into autumn, often well over a full super’s worth, though the right amount depends on climate and colony size. If you take too much, feed sugar syrup in early autumn, thicker than spring syrup. Details of the process are in honey extraction.
Robbing and wasps
When nectar slows, bees and wasps look for easy food. To limit robbing (see also robbing screens):
- Reduce entrances on weaker colonies, using an entrance reducer.
- Avoid leaving honey frames or sticky equipment exposed.
- Do inspections quickly, and not when robbing is already underway.
- Do not spill syrup.
Heat, water and ventilation
Make sure bees have a nearby water source and that the hive has enough ventilation. Shade can help in very hot climates.
Starting winter prep
August is a sensible time to begin planning: assess colony strength, decide which weak colonies to combine, and check equipment. Autumn feeding, entrance reducers and mouse guards come later, as covered in preparing a hive for winter.
FAQ
What month do bees stop swarming?
It varies by region and season. Swarming is mostly a spring and early summer event and tapers off through summer, though occasional late swarms occur. Check with local beekeepers for typical timing.
How does this connect to the following spring?
Colonies that go into winter strong and fed are more likely to need little help afterwards. See spring feeding for honey bees for early-season decisions.