Extracting honey is the most satisfying task of the beekeeping year, and it is simpler than it looks. In outline, you take honey frames off the hive, remove the wax cappings, spin or squeeze out the honey, strain it and bottle it. This guide covers the basics for a hobby beekeeper.
Overview
The steps are:
- Check that the honey is ready.
- Take the honey frames off the hive and clear the bees.
- Uncap the cells.
- Extract the honey.
- Strain and bottle.
- Clean up and return wet frames.
When honey is ready
Bees seal honey with wax once they have reduced it to a moisture level suitable for storage. Frames that are mostly capped are generally ready. If many cells are uncapped, the honey may have too much water and could ferment. A simple test is to hold a frame horizontally and shake it gently: if nectar sprays out, it is too wet. A refractometer gives a more reliable moisture reading, and many sources suggest aiming for roughly 18 percent moisture or less.
Take honey only from supers (parts of a bee hive explains them), and avoid frames with brood. Make sure you leave enough honey for the colony itself. See August beekeeping and preparing a hive for winter for guidance on what to leave.
Equipment
The basics are:
- Uncapping knife or fork
- Extractor (or a plan to crush and strain, below)
- Food-safe buckets, ideally with a tap, and a fine strainer
- A capping tray
- Clean glass or food-grade jars with lids
Bee clubs often rent or lend extractors, so you may not need to buy one at first. A clean, enclosed space such as a garage or kitchen keeps bees and robbers away.
Taking frames off
Use smoke gently, then remove frames and brush or shake the bees back into the hive, or use a bee escape board a day or two beforehand. Put the frames straight into a covered box so that bees do not follow you and begin robbing; robbing screens can help at the hive. Protective clothing is advisable.
Uncapping
Slice or scrape the wax caps off both sides of each frame, working over a tray. A heated knife or an uncapping fork both work, and so does a plain, sharp, warm knife. Capping wax holds a lot of honey, so let it drain.
Extracting
Place uncapped frames in the extractor, balancing the weights, and spin gently at first, then faster. Turn the frames and spin the other side. Honey collects at the bottom, and you can open the tap into a bucket through a strainer.
Filtering and bottling
Strain the honey through a coarse, then finer mesh to remove wax and debris. Leave it to settle in a bucket for a day or so to let bubbles rise, then bottle in clean, dry jars. Label with the date. Keep honey sealed, away from damp, since it absorbs moisture.
Crush and strain
Without an extractor, you can cut the comb out of the frame, crush it in a bucket and let it drain through a strainer. It is slow and messy, and the bees have to rebuild the comb, but it needs very little equipment.
Cleanup and wet frames
Sticky equipment and frames attract bees and wasps, so clean up promptly. Many beekeepers put wet frames back on the hive for the bees to clean, in the evening, so the bees do the work. Cappings can be melted down into beeswax.
FAQ
What is the simplest way to extract honey from a beehive?
For most beginners, borrowing a hand-cranked extractor and following the steps above is simplest. If you only have one or two frames, crush and strain.
Can I eat honey straight from the hive?
Capped honey from a healthy hive is generally fine to eat, but it is usually cleaner to strain it first. Honey from comb that contains brood or debris is not ideal.
How many bees does it take to make a pound of honey?
Estimates vary, but a single bee makes only a small fraction of a teaspoon in her lifetime, so it takes the work of many bees over many foraging trips. Treat any specific figure you see as a rough estimate.
What about spring after you’ve taken honey?
If you took a lot of honey, check stores in spring and feed if needed. See spring feeding for honey bees.