First, check whether it is normal brood
Honey bee larvae are themselves small, white and legless, and sit curled inside comb cells. Drone larvae are larger and can look alarming, especially if they have been pulled out and dropped on the ground or bottom board by the bees. Normal bee larvae stay in their cells and do not crawl around. If you find motionless white grubs inside capped or open cells in the brood area, you are most likely looking at healthy brood.
Worms that move across frames, tunnel through comb or crawl on the bottom board are a different matter. The most common culprits are wax moth larvae and small hive beetle larvae.
Wax moth larvae
Greater wax moth larvae feed on beeswax, pollen and old brood comb. They are creamy white to grayish with a darker head, and they leave behind silky webbing, tunnels through the comb and dark droppings. They may spin tough cocoons, sometimes in clusters on frames or in the wood of boxes.
Wax moths are mostly a problem in weak colonies and in stored comb. A strong colony will normally remove them. Damage often follows another problem, such as a colony that has dwindled or died.
Small hive beetle larvae
Where small hive beetles are present, their larvae can be found crawling on comb and frames. They are creamy white, with three pairs of short legs near the head and small spines along the back. Heavy infestations can cause honey to ferment, become runny and develop a bad smell, and may lead a colony to abandon the hive. Small hive beetles are not found everywhere, so it helps to check whether they are established in your area.
How to tell them apart
| Feature | Bee brood | Wax moth larva | Hive beetle larva |
|---|---|---|---|
| Location | Inside cells | Tunnels and webbing in comb | On frames, in honey, bottom board |
| Movement | Stays in the cell | Wriggles and hides | Crawls actively |
| Signs | Neat brood pattern | Silk webbing, droppings | Slimy, fermented honey |
If you are unsure, take clear photographs and ask an experienced beekeeper or local bee inspector.
What to do
- Strengthen the colony. Combining a weak colony or helping it build numbers often helps, since bees clear out larvae when they can cover the comb.
- Remove affected comb. Heavily damaged comb can be taken out. Dispose of it carefully, rather than leaving it where moths or beetles can reproduce.
- Reduce space. Take away empty boxes the bees cannot patrol. A smaller entrance can also help weak colonies defend themselves.
- Store comb carefully. Keep spare equipment in a clean, ventilated place, and check it periodically. Local extension services often give advice suited to your climate.
- Follow local advice on beetles. If you suspect small hive beetle, check whether reporting or specific treatments are recommended in your area.
Honey that has been fouled by larvae may ferment. Avoid extracting from heavily infested comb.
Not worms: foulbrood and varroa
Two other problems sometimes show up in these searches. Foulbrood diseases affect brood and may show as sunken, darkened or perforated cappings and patchy brood. They are serious and often subject to legal reporting, so if you suspect it, contact your local bee inspector or experienced beekeeper and avoid moving frames between colonies. Varroa are mites, not worms, and are usually seen as small reddish-brown dots on bees or brood. Neither of these is solved by the steps above. See our overview of insects and animals that kill honey bees for context.
Damp, neglected comb can also grow mold, which is a separate issue covered in mold in a bee hive.
FAQ
How do you get rid of little white worms? First identify them. Strengthen the colony, remove damaged comb and keep stored equipment clean.
Can humans get varroa mites? No, they are parasites of bees.