Signs of a healthy hive
No single sign proves a colony is healthy. Beekeepers look at several things together and compare them with what they saw last time. Common indicators include the following.
A laying queen
Fresh eggs, one per cell and standing upright at the bottom of cells, suggest the queen was laying within the past few days. You do not have to spot the queen herself. If you want to build the skill, see the inspection guide for what to look for.
A good brood pattern
A healthy worker brood area is generally solid and compact, with capped brood in a similar stage across a patch and few empty cells. Young larvae are usually pearly white and curled in the bottom of the cell. Capped worker brood typically has flat to slightly domed cappings of an even colour.
A strong population
Frames covered with bees, nurse bees moving over the brood, and steady traffic at the entrance on a good day are all positive signs. In cold weather, a strong colony is better placed to keep a cluster warm.
Adequate food
Look for nectar and honey in the upper and outer areas of frames and pollen stored near the brood. Pollen coming in on foragers’ legs suggests brood is being raised. Keep in mind that plenty of honey does not by itself mean a hive is healthy: a colony that has lost most of its bees or its queen can still have full frames.
Clean comb and a calm temperament
Bees keep their home tidy, remove dead bees and debris, and usually behave predictably for the weather and time of day. A healthy hive often smells pleasantly of wax and honey.
No signs of pests or disease
Some pests are always present at low levels, but a colony that holds them in check shows little visible damage. Varroa mites are the main concern for many beekeepers, and they are best checked with a monitoring method such as a mite count rather than by eye alone.
Warning signs of an unhealthy hive
Any one of these can have more than one cause, so use them as prompts to look closer rather than as a diagnosis.
- Spotty or irregular brood. Many gaps may suggest a failing queen, poor mating, disease or other stresses.
- No eggs or very young larvae. This may mean the colony is queenless or the queen is not laying.
- Multiple eggs in a cell, or eggs on cell walls. Can indicate laying workers or a poorly laying queen. Seek advice.
- Sunken, darkened or perforated cappings, discoloured or twisted larvae. These are among the signs that can accompany brood disease.
- A persistent foul smell. A strongly unpleasant odour can be linked to serious brood disease. Contact your local apiary inspector or an experienced beekeeper.
- Bees with deformed wings, or many crawling bees unable to fly. Often associated with Varroa and the viruses they spread, among other causes.
- Many dead bees at the entrance or inside. May indicate pesticide exposure, robbing, disease or other problems.
- Webbing, larvae or tunnelling in comb. Wax moths or small hive beetles often take advantage of weak colonies.
- Fighting and robbing at the entrance. See robbing screens.
- Falling population or low stores. Look at both together, since each can cause the other.
- Unusual defensiveness or nervousness. Weather, handling or queen problems can all play a part.
- Excess moisture or mould. Condensation can harm a colony, especially in cold weather; see mold in a bee hive.
What to do when something looks wrong
- Pause and note what you see. Photos and written notes help when asking for advice.
- Check whether you have a simple explanation, such as weather, a recent disturbance, or a seasonal brood break.
- Avoid moving frames between colonies if you suspect disease.
- Ask for help. A local beekeeping association, an experienced mentor, or your regional apiary inspector can help identify problems. Some brood diseases are notifiable in many places.
- Follow product labels exactly if you treat for pests, and record what you used and when.
- Re-check after the interval advised to see whether things have improved.
A printable checklist can help you record these observations in a consistent way, and the inspection timing guide suggests when to follow up.
Healthy versus strong
A colony can be healthy but small, for example a new split or nucleus colony, and a large colony can be unhealthy. Judge a colony against what is expected for its age, the season and your region, rather than against a single ideal. For typical population ranges, see how many bees live in a hive.
Is honey straight from the hive safe to eat?
Honey is commonly eaten straight from the comb by beekeepers, and well-ripened honey is a stable food. A few cautions are worth knowing:
- Honey should be ripe (mostly capped); uncapped nectar can have high moisture and may ferment.
- Honey should not be given to infants under 12 months because of the risk of infant botulism, whether raw or processed.
- Hive products can contain pollen and propolis, which may trigger reactions in people with allergies.
- If a colony has been treated with medications or chemicals, follow label directions about when honey can be harvested for people. Treatments are usually not applied while honey supers are on.
- Honey from a colony with suspected disease is a food safety question for your local authorities or inspector, not something to guess about.
If you are unsure, ask an experienced beekeeper or your local food safety authority.
Keeping a healthy hive healthy
Regular but purposeful inspections, monitoring for Varroa, making sure the colony has enough food and room, replacing old or damaged equipment, and keeping good records give you the best chance of catching problems early. Learn the basics in the guide to bee hive inspections, and tailor your approach to local conditions with help from experienced beekeepers nearby.