Why Langstroth plans center on bee space
The Langstroth hive is a stack of open-bottomed boxes holding removable frames. It works because of bee space, the gap of about 3/8 inch that bees generally keep clear instead of sealing with propolis or filling with comb. Plans that respect this spacing between frames, box walls and neighboring boxes give you hives that open cleanly. Plans that do not produce stuck frames and burr comb.
Because the whole system depends on accurate measurement, it is worth building from a tested plan rather than improvising. If you are still comparing designs, our guide to bee hive plans explains the alternatives.
Standard box dimensions
Dimensions vary slightly between sources and manufacturers (our bee hive size guide compares box, frame and footprint measurements), so treat the figures below as typical values and check your plan and your frames against each other before cutting.
| 10-frame | 8-frame | |
|---|---|---|
| Outside length | about 19 7/8 in | about 19 7/8 in |
| Outside width | about 16 1/4 in | about 13 3/4 in |
| Board thickness | 3/4 in (true) | 3/4 in (true) |
| Frame rest rabbet | about 3/4 in wide, 3/8 to 3/4 in deep | same |
Some sources quote a 20 1/8 inch box length, which reflects different rabbet and joint designs. The inside length matters most, because it must fit the frame top bars with the correct bee space at each end. Buy a frame first if you can and measure it.
Box depths
Langstroth boxes come in three common depths:
- Deep: about 9 5/8 inches, often used for the brood nest.
- Medium: about 6 5/8 inches, popular for honey supers because they weigh less.
- Shallow: roughly 5 3/4 to 5 7/8 inches, depending on the source.
Frames must match the box depth. Using one depth throughout the hive, often medium, simplifies equipment and swapping frames, though it means more frames to handle.
8-frame or 10-frame
Eight-frame boxes weigh less when full, which many people find easier on the back. The trade-off is that you may need more boxes to hold the same amount of comb, and the brood nest is smaller. Ten-frame boxes are the more widely used standard and hold more per box, but get heavy. Choose based on your strength and local advice rather than convention. If the choice is part of a bigger design question, see our bee hive plans guide.
Materials and joinery
Common choices are pine and cedar boards with a true thickness of 3/4 inch. Cedar resists weather better but costs more. Plywood, around 1/2 inch, is often used for outer covers and sometimes for bottom boards.
Most plans use one of these joints:
- Box (finger) joints: strong and traditional, but need a jig or careful cutting.
- Rabbet joints: simpler to cut and fine with glue and screws or nails.
- Butt joints with screws: simplest, but weakest over time.
Frame rests are a rabbet along the top inside edge of two opposite walls where frame lugs sit. Cut them consistently, because uneven rests are a common cause of crooked comb.
How to assemble a Langstroth hive
- Cut all boards to the plan’s cut list and label them.
- Cut the frame rest rabbets and any joint profiles.
- Dry fit each box and check that it is square.
- Glue and fasten the corners, using exterior-grade glue and corrosion-resistant fasteners.
- Measure diagonals, and adjust before the glue sets.
- Build the bottom board (see bottom board dimensions), inner cover and outer cover to match the box footprint.
- Sand rough edges, then finish the outside only. Many beekeepers use exterior paint or sealer and leave the inside bare.
- Let finishes cure fully before bees move in.
- Test fit frames in each box and check that they hang freely.
Assemble your frames after the boxes are done, and check the spacing again.
How much honey can you get from a 10-frame hive?
There is no reliable single number. Yield depends on the strength of the colony, local forage, weather, hive management and how much honey you leave for the bees. In many regions a new colony produces little or no surplus in its first year, while established colonies in a good season may produce several supers. Ask local beekeepers what their typical yields are in your area, and plan on leaving the colony enough stores for winter. When you do harvest, honey extraction walks through the process.
The long Langstroth variant
A long Langstroth keeps standard frames in a single long box, so you slide frames sideways rather than lifting stacked boxes. Plans commonly use wide lumber such as 2x10 for the walls and a plywood floor. It reduces lifting but takes more space, needs custom equipment and does not interchange with stacked boxes. Consider it if lifting is a concern.
Mistakes that cost you later
- Mixing inside and outside dimensions.
- Using nominal board sizes instead of true thickness.
- Cutting every box before testing one.
- Painting interior surfaces or using treated lumber.
- Buying frames that do not match the box depth.
For cold climates, you may also want to read about insulated hive plans, and if you prefer a no-frame, minimal-intervention hive, see our Warre hive plans.