What a Warre hive is
The Warre hive is a vertical hive made of small, identical boxes. Instead of frames, each box holds top bars from which bees build natural comb. The design is credited to the French priest Abbe Emile Warre and is usually associated with a low-intervention approach. Boxes are typically added at the bottom (called nadiring) as the colony grows, rather than added on top.
If you are still weighing designs, our bee hive plans guide compares the options.
Parts a Warre plan should include
A complete plan lists:
- Hive bodies (boxes), usually several identical ones.
- Top bars, typically eight per box.
- A floor and entrance.
- A quilt box, a box filled with absorbent material above the top bars.
- A roof with a ventilation gap.
- Optional extras such as an observation window or a stand.
Typical dimensions
Many Warre plans follow the traditional proportions, with a square interior of roughly 300 mm (about 12 inches) on each side and box height of about 210 mm. Sources differ in details, and plans in imperial units round the numbers. Follow one plan consistently, because the top bar width and spacing need to fit the box. As an example of spacing, one commercial kit places eight bars about 12 mm apart using a spacer. Confirm the figures against your own plan.
Building the boxes and top bars
Preparing top bars
Warre top bars are often V-shaped on the underside. Some builders brush a narrow bead of melted beeswax along the very bottom edge of the V to encourage bees to start comb in the right place. Apply wax only to that edge, because coating the whole underside can weaken the comb attachment.
Melting wax carries a fire risk. Use low heat, never leave wax unattended, and keep children away from the work area.
Securing top bars
Bees glue parts together with propolis, and bars that are not fastened can pull away from their comb when you separate boxes. Many builders fasten each bar with a small brad at each end. Because a Warre is not designed for the frame-by-frame inspections of a Langstroth, there is little reason to leave bars loose.
Optional finishing of bar tops
Bees often attach comb from an upper box to the bars in the box below. This can help bees move up in winter, but makes separating boxes harder. Some beekeepers apply a thin coat of tung oil to the tops of the bars to reduce the bond. This is optional, and you should follow product safety instructions and let it cure fully.
Quilt box and roof
The quilt box sits above the top bars and is usually filled with a breathable material such as wood shavings. Its purpose is to absorb moisture from the cluster. The roof covers the quilt box and has gaps for airflow, which also helps prevent mold in the hive. Quilt boxes are also relevant to cold-climate planning, which we discuss in our article on insulated hive plans.
Managing a Warre
Warre management differs from frame hives. Typical practice includes adding empty boxes at the bottom, monitoring through a window or a quick check, and harvesting from the top boxes. Detailed hive inspection is limited because comb is attached to the box above.
Check local regulations, because some places require beekeepers to be able to inspect every comb. Where that applies, a fixed-comb hive may be restricted, though some people add a few frames in the center boxes to allow limited inspection. Ask your local apiary inspector or association.
Who should and should not choose a Warre
A Warre may suit someone who prefers minimal handling and a smaller, simpler build. It may suit you less if you want to inspect closely for disease, split colonies readily or follow most mainstream beginner instruction, which assumes frames. If that describes you, Langstroth hive plans are a more common starting point.